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Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn
It's likely not the same idea but I am reminded of what a contractor told me once. I was thinking about tiling around the foundations of a house at our camp (now demolished) to protect the foundations against frost damage. The contractor said 'Well the trouble is that when you need it the soil is already saturated and there's no place for it to drain unless you pump it from a sump to a drainage slope.' The house didn't have much back grading and that among other things is what killed it, but it was actually dead before we got it.
Tile drainage systems work best if the end sees daylight. The soil may have a high perc rate but probably not enough for storms and it might be good to think what where water from the catch basin goes. I've seen rockless tile for septic systems but I don't know the cost.
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Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn
It might be good to think about the trench grade. I don't know what an optimal grade might be but I think there are some issues.
I think that one issue is volume, and long runs pipe with little slope have lower flows even with a head on the intake end. I also think pipes that have shallow grades tend to be more prone to collecting sediment. Of course, steeper slopes means having to extend the pipe further down hill to get to daylight.
If the pipe drains a sizable area then there's going to be much more water at the outlet than from normal surface drainage and it would be good to think about surface drainage from the outlet. Permanent wet spots, erosion etc. are possible. If it's flex pipe then it's also good to ensure that the grade is constant so the entire pipe drains. I'm just raising issues and maybe somebody has the answers.
It might be good to shoot the trench floor to a specific slope, which can be a fun job in itself.
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Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn
Sounds like the ideas here came together pretty well--room for both some work and a little research, which should make things interesting. I must be one of the last people in the world to use a water level and trig tables but it's fun (and doesn't need sight lines). Laser levels are sure getting inexpensive though. Somewhere I've seen a table that relates level bubbles to slopes but I can't remember where--half-bubble is simpler than trig tables though.
I tend to shoot my surface ditches to 3%, which seems to give good flow with little erosion but that may not be best for a pipe. Best angles for solid pipe likely are greater than for perforated pipe where you want water to hang around in the pipe. Yes, tiling for big fields would need to be near the Grand Canyon if appreciable slopes were used.
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